Thursday, July 11th

Thursday, July 11th
    Hotel du Cygne, Totes.
    At nine thirty our new coach drove up before the Royal Hotel, with 4 fine chestnut horses drawing it. The off horses were both brisker in step and harder workers than the near horses- especially was the near leader a loafer. A long up grade took us to the height of the cliffs along the sea.  Then we swung off around a gentle down grade with a picturesque wooded ravine to the right.  Soon we came out upon far stretches of flat country, bordered here and there by artificial avenues of lombardy poplars, magnificent beech groves, locusts, and occasionally some elms. The fields showed ripening grain and grass, - with poor cottages and poorer peasantry among them.  The landscape could not compare with the glorious full green of England, though it had interest for a very different kind of beauty. As far as we could (43) see, there was but little rising and falling in the prevailing flatness, with the horizon showing the serrated line made against the sky by the poplars. 19 miles took us to the oldest of inns at Totes. The kitchen walls were hung with utensils of ancient times- polished brass, pewter, and old colored dishs of varying shades of blue, backed by a deep fire place. Our bunch was served in a little room dedicated to “L’ Emperor et Roi”, adorned with many pictures covering his war operation.

Totes

Totes

Hotel du Cygne, Totes,1912

Totes?

    All along the way peasantry stopped to gaze at us, one old man with an appeal for "Pourboire",- many laborers taking the occasion as a happy moment to rest upon rake or hoe.
    Poppies had flourished scarlet amid the green of clover, wheat and oats all morning. In the afternoon these flowers grew less abundant. On the whole, the scenery was similar, - perhaps with a tendency to show a prevailing up grade. Suddenly we came upon rougher woodland; then a long winding descent to Maromme carried us into the valley of the Seine and Rouen. (44)
We took a hurried walk to the ancient time- worn cathedral, sought out the tower where Jeane D'arc was confined, followed a winding course to the market place, and there saw a square tablet in the side walk where La Purcelle was make a political martyr in 1431. Near by stands a monument dating to 1456.
    Dinner, a walk to point out the last two scenes to Mr. S while D.L.B. and C.F.B. played chess, and then to bed.